Fumigation FAQs

Q: What is Vikane gas fumigant?
Vikane is a colorless, odorless gas that quickly penetrates structural materials during whole structure fumigation. Vikane, backed by nearly 50 years of university research, practical use, and published reports, is non-staining, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Vikane quickly dissipates from the structure into the atmosphere and does not damage the ozone layer.
Q: Why is Chloropicrin used?
Chloropicrin or teargas is a warning agent. It is a colorless liquid with a strong odor, causing tearing of the eyes and throat when used at low concentrations. Chloropicrin helps ensure a structure is vacated of people and pets prior to fumigation with Vikane. It also serves as a deterrent from early or accidental entry into a structure under fumigation. At the end of the fumigation, your fumigator aerates both chloropicrin and Vikane gas from the structure before allowing you to reenter your home.
Q: What precautions are taken to ensure my family and property are safe?
Your fumigator takes many precautions to ensure the safety of you, your family, your pets and property before, during and after the fumigation process. For example, the licensed fumigator will:
  • Release chloropicrin, the warning agent used with Vikane, to warn anyone against entry into the structure.
  • Secure the doors on your home with additional locking devices designed to prevent entry by anyone except the licensed fumigator.
  • Post a guard on your property for the full length of the fumigation.
  •  Use sophisticated equipment to detect when Vikane has dissipated and ensure your home is clear for reentry.
Q: Do I have to wash anything after the fumigation?
No. Vikane gas does not leave a residue. Vikane is an inorganic gas and as such, aerates rapidly from the structure and leaves absolutely no odor, residue, or film on any household surfaces.
Q: Will Vikane gas cause damage to my home?
Vikane gas does not react with most materials and is unlikely to cause damage. Your licensed, trained fumigation professional will inspect your property to help ensure that your contents will not be affected.
Q: Why are log cabins such a problem with Wood Boring Beetles?
Simply stated, the huge amount of wood in a log home is attractive to beetles. Prior to the 1930’s, most log homes were constructed from large logs from which the sapwood was removed, leaving dense, insect resistant heartwood. Most log homes are now made from fast grown pine, spruce or fir consisting mostly of sapwood. Some are constructed of more insect resistant species such as cedar, cypress or hemlock. However, even these woods lose their resistance over time and become prone to infestation. Logs must be dried to remove excess moisture before assembly or they will later shrink as the moisture evaporates after construction, causing structural problems. It is during this time that Wood Boring Beetles lay their eggs in the pores and cracks of the wood. Then, depending on the beetle species and environmental factors, five to ten years later you have a beetle infestation in your prized possession, your log cabin.
Q: Do I need to remove anything from my home?
You need to remove any edible food product that is in contact with the air or in a container that air can leak into. A good rule of thumb is, “when in doubt take it out.”

Here are some examples - Remove these items:

  • Chips, pasta, rice and other foods packaged in plastic bags
  • Cereals, crackers and other foods packaged in cardboard boxes, even if the boxes have never been opened
  • Spices, salt and pepper shakers, and other items where the seal has been broken
  • Eggs
  • Ice, open bottles of drinking water
  • Butter, cream cheese and any other items stored in a resealed container, including items stored in Tupperware containers
  • Fruits and vegetables
  • Bags of pet food and bird seed, as well as open cans of such
  • Edible frozen contents in your freezer
  • Medicines that are taken internally
  • Drugs, including tobacco products

You do not need to remove these items:

  • Unopened cans, including home canned goods
  • Cosmetics, such as lipstick
  • Unopened soda cans and glass or plastic bottles
  • Unopened bottles of liquor and wine, if they can be stored horizontally.
     
Q: What do I need to do before fumigation day?
Your fumigator may ask you to cut back foliage, shrubbery, and landscaping, at least 18 inches from the structure to allow room for the tarps.    Remember to make arrangements for overnight accommodations for you and your pets, as your home will be under fumigation for three or four nights and up to five days, depending on the pest being fumigated.
Please keep in mind that a fumigation may need to be rescheduled if the weather is uncooperative. High winds and rain may hinder a fumigation and cause potential damage to the fumigators and your home.
Try not to purchase extra food from the grocery store. The more you have, the more you will have to remove from the home.  Call the gas company to arrange an appointment to restore gas service after fumigation is complete, as the gas will be cut off during the fumigation.

The day of the fumigation, do this:

  • Remove all plants from inside your home and from outdoor patios that may be covered during the fumigation.
  • Make sure all people and pets are accounted for and are out of the structure on the day the fumigation begins.
  • Remove mattresses that are completely enveloped in plastic, such as baby mattresses. Also remove any waterproof covers. Some vinyl or leather furniture may need to be removed; your fumigator will discuss this with your prior to the fumigation day.
Q: After the fumigation:
  • It is unnecessary to wash dishes, linens, clothing, etc. as Vikane or Sulfuryl Fluoride is a true gas and will dissipate from the structure and will leave no residue.
  • Be available at the end of the fumigation to perform a walk through inspection with your Barnes Lakeside representative to ensure everything is to your satisfaction.

If you have any other questions concerning fumigation contact a Barnes Lakeside representative.